Vienna, Feature

Vienna Whirl

Catherine Chambers visits Austria's capital

"The Musical City" trumpets the brochure. Indeed, it's difficult not be aware of the role classical music plays in Vienna. There are monuments to Strauss and Mozart everywhere and people dressed up in mock-Mozart costumes selling tickets for the daily concert performances. Stroll into a cafe or bar and orchestral sounds are all around - all part and parcel of the grandeur you feel in this former Imperial city.

But the first thing you notice as you walk around Vienna is the relaxed, almost surreal atmosphere, and how clean the place is. I was taken aback by the absence of hustle and bustle of life. You can spend all day drinking coffee, in one of the city's most famous coffee houses such as Cafe Sperl, without being asked if you want the bill.

Even though it rained during most of my visit, the weather failed to dampen my spirits. Unfortunately the Spanish Riding School was closed, so we didn't get to see the famous white Lipizanners as they were on tour. However, there's plenty on offer in this aesthetically beautiful city. Vienna abounds with stunning architecture. You can't fail to be overawed by the magnificent palaces, art museums and galleries. What's more they're all within walking distance.

Gustav Klimt, one of Austria's finest artistic exports, spearheaded the Cessation movement, and his famous Beethoven Frieze is in the aptly titled Cessation building. Klimt's most famous painting, The Kiss, takes pride of place in the majestic Schloss Belvedere Palace. You'd be advised to spend a whole day here as it covers every form of art imaginable from Impressionist and Baroque.

The Museum of Fine Arts, home to one of the top art collections in the world, is also worth a visit for the interior architectural designs alone. There are even handy audio guides available free so you can actually get the gist of what the paintings mean rather than staring blankly at them.

What certainly warrants a visit is the New City Hall, built in the nineteenth century. The rear of the Hall played host to an open-air film festival and I popped along in the evening to find out more. There was a cool vibe, beer was cheap and it was the first clear night since I'd arrived. It was the perfect end to my stay, and I'll definitely be going back. Just don't go expecting the Danube to be blue!

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