New York, Feature

The Big Apple

David Clee treks through the hustle and bustle.

'HEY MANHATTAN! Here I am,' sang a breathless Paddy McAloon of Prefab Sprout, capturing one of the essences of visiting New York - the importance of the big, bold arrival.

Here is a city whose famous, iconic skyline inspires and demands a confident approach, so why not make that approach part of your daily routine? One way to achieve this Groundhog Day feat is to get up early, fall asleep on the subway or in a cab and open your eyes only when you board the Staten Island ferry. That way, you can take Manhattan as one shining chunk and take it more easily in your stride.

The other thing that defines New York for me is food. Arriving back from Staten Island in the morning rush, follow some real commuters to cafes and coffee shops and reward yourself with a big breakfast (corned beef hash one day, crispy bacon the next) and the chance to pronounce 'corrrfee' just like the natives.

Now for a northern trek, first through the financial district, where you'll want to pay respects at Ground Zero, then Chinatown and then on to Greenwich Village, where, if you pace it right, it will be time for mid-morning bagels, perhaps taken watching the street performers at Washington Square. On another day, you could whisk through the East Village, now seen by many as more vibrant than its western sister.

Early afternoon should see you pass through SoHo, head up Broadway, to Times Square and into another eatery where it's time to wallow in the gloriously sickly syrup they pile onto pancakes.

Next could be swanky Madison Avenue and the Upper East Side or, especially on a warm summer evening, Central Park. The choice could depend on your stomach capacity - a sandwich in the park for backsliders or a five-star meal for the full of pocket but not yet full of belly.

After the ferry, my favourite skyline-spotting trip is the cable car that goes from Manhattan to Roosevelt Island. From there, a walk along the East River gives a breathtaking stepped-back look at the city, especially after dark. It's a great way to start the night, and start your second bold arrival of the day.

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