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Feature File

Bergen

Breathtaking Bergen
Tracy Bymoen discovers Bergen's history

"Rain is the rule, not the exception, my dear," explains the man behind the fish table. As rain pounds the overhead canopy, I peruse the fresh offerings of the Fish Market. Dried fish, smoked fish, pickled fish, caviar…The market is a seafood lover's delight. For those who favour red meat, polse - Norwegian sausage - is available at the market's edge, amidst stalls of flowers, vegetables, and handicrafts.

Its location at the edge of the fjords ensures Bergen gets more rain than any Norwegian city, and possibly any other in Europe. Yet, despite the weather, perhaps even because of it, Bergeners love their city. Known throughout the land as loud folk, locals have a strong sense of pride, their city having been through it all -- the great plague, countless fires, and endless rain. Now locals revel in boasting about their quaint alleyways, rich trading history, and superb location.

Norway's first capital city, The Hanseatic League had its base in Bergen for several centuries. These days, visitors can wander through World Heritage listed Bryggen -- the warehouses they once occupied. Even behind the wharf, Cobblestone pathways and wood buildings remain. Idling in a little flower shop on the corner to escape another rain shower, I could just as easily be back in the 19th century. Maybe I'll run into Edvard Grieg. His home is just around the corner.

Some of the world's musical greats once haunted these streets, the local taverns their watering holes. Edvard Grieg, Harald Svaeverud, and Ole Bull all began here. It's hardly coincidence then that Europe's oldest Philharmonic Orchestra opened here in 1765. Continuing the tradition, performances still run every Thursday night at the Grieg Hall. Each June, The Bergen International Festival also continues to attract a broad spectrum of musical talent, from classical to modern.

Outside, the rain has reduced to a drizzle. I hesitantly venture back outside, not quite as fond of Bergen's weather as its locals, and head toward the funicular. As it carries me up mountain Floyen, for a view over Bergen and the fjords beyond, the sun peaks out from the edge of a cloud, contemplating a lengthier appearance. This day in Bergen may just be an exceptional one after all. http://www.hotelgenie.com/bergen/index.shtml

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