Berlin, Germany: Nightlife

The days when the west could lay claim to all the hip hangouts have long gone. Kreuzberg was once the undisputed capital of cool, with its alternative, punk and squatting tradition fused with an accommodating Turkish population. With the end of the wall, the trendy young headed north to Prenzlauerberg, on the other side of Berlin Mitte (city centre), where cheap flats were readily available. Both now compete for the city's anarchic heart with both chic and kooky bars, cafes and clubs.

In Mitte the best place to head for arty bars and tasty treats is Oranienburger Str. Here too you can sample the city's alternative beat with a visit to the Tacheles building, an abandoned factory which was first used by squatters before becoming an artists' colony. These days the place is compromised by being too close to the beaten track and you are as likely to bump into a fellow tourist as a budding painter. Still it has a decent, though edgy, bar and thumping nightclub.

In the west the Ku-Damn in the Charlottenburg district is the pick of the crop for more mainstream and upmarket outings with its huge range of pubs, bars and nightclubs.

One of Europe's leading Jazz capitals, Berlin hosts an annual international jazz festival. The city's main jazz venue, the A-Trane, is host to many combos. For some Berlin will forever be associated with Cabaret. Your hotel will be happy to advise you on what shows are available during your visit. Even if your German is nil to non-existent you will find an evening of songs and performance a true Berliner treat.

Aside from local German fare, diners should sample the great value and delicious Turkish food that is at its best in Kreuzberg.

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